Assam Meghalaya trip oct24

Assam Meghalaya trip Oct24
Assam and the north east were a destination on our bucket list for long. Finally made arrangements and set forth on this tour. And what a trip this turned out to be! Had a dose of everything from temples, safari, sightseeing nature, caves, waterfalls, a trek uphill, river cruise, boating et al in pleasant surroundings amidst friendly and lovely locals. Even just walking or driving through the scenic environment is superb. Would recommend this holiday to anyone. 

See my Facebook page for a selection of snaps in a series of posts. Will post a link for the photos here soon.

Took the morning Indigo flight from Chennai airport. Attempts to use "digiyatra" for security didn't work but the airport wasn't too busy. Boarding after a sumptuous tasty breakfast at ID restaurant, dozed off in the quiet flight and landed smoothly. Guwahati airport was a kind of throwback to old Chennai. Small and somewhat cramped for space. It took a while for the checked in bags to arrive. The meeting points were poorly organised, yet the pick-up driver located us quickly. He welcomed us with a smile and small shawl as handout. Cute.

Drive from airport to the city was as in any other Indian city. Typically, crisscrossing traffic and randomly parked vehicles on the roads. Drivers however seemed much more courteous. No haphazard overtaking or excessive blaring of the horns. The hilly landscape with patches of greenery was picturesque. Weather was warm but not humid like Chennai. It was a bit cloudy due to the effects of the Dana cyclone in the south.

First stop was Balaji Mandir. A lovely temple built of white stone and marble with South Indian style gopurams. The deities were Lord Venkateswara of Tirupathi, the thayar  Padmavathi and Durga. This temple is under the aegis of Kanchi Kamakoti Mutt and the pictures of the acharyas were displayed. Nice start to the tour.

Then headed to hotel Royal De Castle in the city - a tidy and clean place. After an excellent lunch there set off to the mighty Brahmaputra for a sunset cruise. Clouds kept the sun away and it was dark by 5 pm. Enjoyed city sights, spots of greenery sipping chai (badly made) and old Hindi songs played as the steamer went around the river. Water in the river though muddy was relatively cleaner than in other cities. Got back to the hotel and after a light tasty dinner retired.

Checking out early next morning went to the divine Shakti Peedam Ma Kamakkya Mandir. Booking of the 501 rupees special darshan was done by the travel agent. Had a good darshan of the deities after a wait of nearly 3 hours in the Q. Avoiding Sunday would have been better. There's a faster VVIP Q for those with some juggad! However, we were thankful to be blessed to get a darshan at this divine temple.

Thereon proceeded on a long drive to Kaziranga National Park. The 6-lane highway for the most part was very good. Well maintained despite heavy rains. The driver stuck to the speed limits and it was a smooth journey. Enroute stopped at a pure veg restaurant for a good lunch.

Midway stopped at a mandir. The huge idol of Lord Shiva could be sighted from afar. A gallery of steps surrounded it and lead via an opening into a basement, a large hall housing a Shiva temple. The surroundings are landscaped. There's a small garden, a devi mandir and a pool of water. Many birds could be seen. Went around saying "Om Nama Shivaya".

It was sunset and dark by the time as we neared Kaziranga. The driver stopped at the approach pointing left exclaimed "rhino". Alighting, saw his majesty pretty close but moving away just giving enough time for a snap. He seemed to welcome us. Reaching Kaziranga park stayed overnight at Iora Retreat a fine place. Elephant safari had been cancelled for October due to rains. After an excellent breakfast took the jeep safari on Central Avenue. The park was lovely, very picturesque with tall grass. Could see many Rhinos, few elephants, deer, jungle pigs, storks and other birds but far from the road. Elephant safari is better as the route goes off road at many points inside the grassland. There are 3 other safari routes and the resort is a nice place to chill. A longer stay is necessary. As we were leaving, at the park's boundary again sighted Rhinos with a herd of monkeys in front of them. They come to say goodbye too!

Drove to Shillong via a good highway NH6 that goes up to Agartala Tripura. Nearing Meghalaya, the temperature dropped and it was very pleasant. Stopped at another veg restaurant in a little town. Excellent food - dosa, uthappam very authentic even to our "madrasi" tongue! The drive from here was through winding roads with beautiful greenery on both sides. Reached Umiam Lake on the outskirts of Shillong. However, it being already very dark didn't get down to see the spot.

Entered the city Shillong and it was a crawl thereafter. A distance of 6 km from Lake Umiam to our hotel took an hour and a half. Very narrow roads and traffic comes to a standstill at all crossings. Our driver said it's a daily occurrence. Just had a simple dinner and retired. Enjoyed the nip of the chill weather as the temperature dipped below 20 C. Enroute saw a large floodlit and impressive Shillong sports stadium.

Next morning checked out early and drove towards Cherapunji. A very beautiful drive with spectacular views all through. Called Sura by locals, the town is a cluster of small villages with modest housing. Lots of holiday homes, resorts have sprung all over. From the highlands are waterfalls flowing down offering a good view.

Stopped at Elephant Falls so named by the Brits based on a rock's (now gone) shape. Area around the waterfall is lush green with steps down the slope capturing three distinct views of the falls. It had a fair amount of water. A treat for sore eyes.

Driving on stopping midway for a valley view at Mawkdok Dympep. Mist covered most of the view but was a nice halt and had some tea.

Then was Garden of Caves. A large plot with about a dozen caves and small waterfalls landscaped tastefully with a sort of theme too. Caves were small formations easy to traverse. Spent a good bit of time here.

Next stopped at Nohkalikai Falls. An impressive view from the top but mist blocked most of it and there was less water. As the mist cleared occasionally it seemed like the waterfall was playing hide and seek. Drank local pineapple juice here. Very tasty. Purchased turmeric and honey.

Had a great and different experience at Mawsmai Caves. After climbing about 50 steps reached the cave entrance. It was about a 1 km long walk through. I say loosely "walk through". One literally has to crawl through at least 3 spots inside. At most other places have to bend to avoid stalactites and take care not to trip over stalagmites. It is also dark inside though some lighting is provided. Reminded of the Manjummel Boys movie! This mini adventure will remain in my memory for long. Arwah caves another similar spot is nearby. Bigger but requires a longer trek to reach. But skipped as we were a little tired already.

Moved on to a group of seven waterfalls from one side of the cliff aptly named Seven sisters. The view again was mist covered and water a trickle. Cherapunji once known for record rainfall is now seeing much less precipitation.

Finally reached our rooms close by at a newly built resort. Retired after early dinner. Next morning after breakfast set off to the big event Long Root Bridges trek Nongriat. After a drive of half an hour through a most beautiful route arrived at the starting point. Bought water, hired walking sticks and a local guide.

The first phase was a climb down of about 1000 steps. At a junction turned right and go down another 1000 steps to reach the first bridge - Single Root Bridge. Then walked down taking breaks in between enjoying the route, views, many birds, butterflies, moths but no animals. It took 2 hours to reach the first bridge. Total 2000 steps - the agent and tourism brochures say 800 steps, don't believe it. My friend's wife who came under this assumption had a tough time. Pretty steep at some points. The bridge was a lovely sight. Built extending the branches of a tree and fastened with bamboos supporting the floor and side railings. It extends spanning the gorge below to maybe 250m. The guide said it's 200 years old. Only 4 persons allowed on it at a time. From this bridge on one side could see another one being built. The guide explained it will take about 9 years to finish and be released for use.

After half an hour here enjoying the views and taking photos, moved back. Walked up the 1000 steps until the aforementioned junction. Then turning right walked another 1500 steps to reach the 2nd or Double Decker Root Bridge. These steps were flatter, except couple of steep climbs towards the end. After crossing two long metal bridges and taking a break at the gorge on the river under one of them we reached the 2nd bridge - Double root bridge. Took 1.5 hours more and 3500 steps, some very steep. Walking stick and the proverb “one step at a time” helped! Formed in a similar manner as the first one this bridge was shorter. Two branches form paths one slightly below the other. It overlooks a small waterfall and a pool of clear water with many fish. Took a long break of nearly an hour here, enjoying coffee at a stall, cooling our palms, letting the fish nibble the foot and washing our faces in the cold fresh water. Some took a dip there but didn't venture. The return was an arduous journey, especially the climb up of 2000 steps. We reached after several midway breathers in about 2.5 hours. Great experience overall albeit a bit tiring. Will recommend this! Recovering after a good sleep was up and ready for more next morning.

It was Deepavali hence had locally made tasty Rossgulla in the breakfast. The next destination was Dawki town with stopovers at tourist spots enroute.

Stopped at Mawlynnong touted as Asia's cleanest village. The whole area is clean. This is a secluded spot within, even cleaner with tidy gardens, football fields, school, two churches, lots of home stays and restaurants. A couple of watch towers lead up a tree. Entrance is priced at 30 per head and attracts lot of people. Climbed one of the ticketed tree towers for a good view of the area around. Lovely place but tad hyped to attract tourists. Can skip if running out of time. Had a simple lunch at one of the home stay restaurants. A nearby spot is "Balancing Rock" - a huge boulder supported at the centre in the midst of tall areca-nut palm trees providing a beautiful cover. Can skip this too if running out of time.

Driving through yet another lovely route reached the border of Bangladesh (BD). The area is fenced off and manned by security. Drove on parallel to the fencing to reach Umngot river that runs into BD. Took a relaxing cruise of the river on a paddle boat. The river is clean. Crystal clear water enables view of the pebbles at the bottom and lots of fish below. There's a check post near the border manned by BSF.

Went to Dawki Guest House for the night's stay. This is run by a lady who said it's her father's ancestral property and she came back to establish this. A simple well-run place offered a decent a la carte dinner. Could see BD from the terrace. Next morning walked around the area, had a good continental breakfast and left. This area is populated by Khasi tribes, mainly Christian including the landlady. There was surprisingly a small candle lit idol of Shivji in murti form (not lingam) maintained by them. We paid our pranams to Shivji and moved on driving to Shillong. One side of the road is completely blocked by hundreds of trucks carrying goods, mainly boulders to BD.

Negotiating these reached Khansuri Falls. A fantastic location with gushing water located amidst hills with lush green vegetation accessed after a short trek of 2 km. Also reachable by a wire rope sling (skipped preferring to walk). A large clear pool of water formed at the bottom is a spot for swimming. Life jackets are available too. But the water was cold and unprepared for this skipped it.

Then drove a long distance to reach Laitlum Canyon a large green lawn overlooking a picturesque valley, hills around forming the canyon. Completely covered in mist there was practically no visibility. It became chill too. Left tad disappointed and drove to Shillong for night stay. Arriving early beat the traffic jam. Dined at a veg restaurant next door that offered some South Indian dishes too and slept.

Next morning after breakfast drove to Guwahati to catch our afternoon flight to Chennai. The driver took a route covering a lot of areas of Shillong. Got to see the lovely picturesque erstwhile capital of combined Assam. Missed visiting Don Bosco Museum and stopping at Ward's Lake a beautiful area with boating too. Stopped briefly at Umiam Lake a large one just outside Shillong. The hilly views all around are lovely, the climate cool and nice like a hill station. Enjoyed the cold weather. A longer stay at Shillong would have been nice.

Reached Guwahati after about 4 hours. The ladies took off for shopping - Assam silk sarees. I took the opportunity to meet a collegemate after decades. Good to catch up with him. We then drove to the airport through a route covering a lot of the city. Saw the Assam legislature building, campus of Guwahati university, a large lake, river Brahmaputra, many parks and lots of greenery. After lunch at a veggie restaurant near the airport bid farewell to our wonderful driver and checked in. There a more temples and spots to see at Guwahati but requires longer stay.

The flight got slightly delayed due to a security scare but was comfortable and we landed at Chennai by 8-30 pm. Checked-in bags took its time coming. Taxis at Chennai now depart from the Aerohub West distant from the domestic terminal. Got to Q and take a buggy pickup to reach Ola, uber, prepaid taxi etc all segregated. Well organised though a little slow. We reached home by 9-30.

Bummers:
- Missed elephant safari at Kaziranga
- Mist covered the waterfalls and canyon
- Missed some good spots like Don Bosco Museum
- Too much time spent on road travels
- Hotel at Shillong & food at Cherapunji not so good
- Frequent checking in & out got a little tiring leaving no time to relax.

Overall it was a wonderful holiday.
+ Travel agent HTH travels offered a good tour at a reasonable price. Not hi-fi 5 star yet good.
+ Driver Mandal was a gentleman. He knew the area around and took good care of us.
+ Locals were very friendly. 
+ Staff and attendees at hotels and restaurants were very courteous. 
+ Place less populated and generally clean.
+ Bins all over the place collect especially plastic garbage. Yet some tourists dump them haphazardly.
+ Pay and use toilets everywhere. Never saw open defecation anywhere.

Returned happy and battery fully charged. "Yeh dil mange more"! Maybe sometime later, health and energy permitting should try Arunachal, Tripura too.

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